
City Of Light: Rihanna Unveils Fenty Line At Pop-Up In Paris
FRANCE — Earlier this year, DM Fashion Book exclusively reported that LVMH MoĂ«t Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, better known as LVMH and Rihanna have been in secret talks to launch a luxury house under her name, according to multiple sources (see it here).
On February 27, 2019, new details emerged (see it here). After months of speculations, on May 10, 2019, LVMH officially confirmed a luxury label with Riri, under the Fenty banner (see it here).
On May 20, 2019, Rihanna and LVMH MoĂ«t Hennessy Louis Vuitton released more details of their joint fashion venture under the Fenty banner (see it here), the collection debuted in a pop-up store in Paris on May 24 and online on May 29, operating outside of the conventional fashion show schedule under what it has dubbed a âsee-now-wear-nowâ model.
 âIâm aggressive when it comes to style. I love being daring, I love pushing the envelope. I love every type of silhouette: I love strong silhouettes, I love women to look confident and badass, and so thatâs exactly what I plan to bring,â says Rihanna to a group of reporters at the press launch of her debut collection under the Fenty label at a pop-up store in the Marais district in Paris.
For the launch, she dressed in business attire: wore a white corset blazer with power shoulders.
Indeed, with its emphasis on cinched waists and billowing sleeves, and masculine-feminine mix of tailoring and corsetry details, the clothes hanging on the racks in the venue, decked out in the Fenty brandâs signature electric blue, were very much a reflection of Rihannaâs personal style, according to WWD.
âBeing the muse of a fashion maison that youâre also creating is pretty unique, but itâs the only thing that works for me,â Riri explained. âIâm kind of a little selfish like that. When it comes to designing, I have to love it, I have to feel passionate about it.â
While other pop-ups will follow, Riri said she opted to sell the collection mainly online, via fenty.com, because she doesnât like to wait for clothes to become available months after a catwalk show.
âThereâs no, âSee you in the fall, but hereâs a tease.â You see it, you love it, you want it â Iâm like that. Iâm greedy. Iâm calling designers, like âlook 11, can I get that please?â But this way, you can buy it as soon as you see it, so no waiting,â she said, adding it wasnât hard to convince LVMH chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault to switch to the new sales model.
âMr. Arnault is not an idiot, OK â heâs a very smart man and heâs open,â she said ruefully. And while the collection sits at a designer price point, she wants it to be inclusive, so many of the outfits are generously cut â the better to accommodate a range of body types, even though details on sizing were not immediately available.
âYou know, Iâm a curvy girl, so if I canât wear my stuff, itâs not going to work,â the pop star said, adding that she tries on everything herself.
âI need to see it on my hips, I need to see it on my thighs, I need to see it on my stomach. Is it making me look snatch, or is it just good on a fit model?â she said. âWe stress a lot on that, and thereâs definitely a huge diversity in the style of whoâs wearing it, as youâll see as the collections continue to roll out.â
The design team is open to outside influences. Matthew Adams Dolan, one of Rihannaâs favorite designers, worked on the first release, creating items like wide-legged Japanese denim pants with a deep inverted pleat. Conner Ives, a U.S. designer studying at Central Saint Martins, worked on the upcoming second release.
Rihanna said in addition to being open to young talents, the brand aims to capitalize on a broader wave of inclusivity in fashion.
âI feel like right now fashion in general has been stepping up a lot and being vocal about issues, whether itâs subtly or aggressively, like Pyer Moss, and I enjoy that. I love the message, I love that anger. We, too, have been lightly touching on that,â she said.
The collection made its debut online on May 29 in 14 countries, including the U.S., the U.K. and a dozen European nations, said Jean-Baptiste Voisin, chief strategy officer at LVMH, who spearheaded the project.
After two years of utmost secrecy, Voisin lifted the lid on the genesis of the label and practical aspects such as price points, the frequency of drops â or âreleases,â in Fenty parlance â and his expectations for the line, which breaks the mold in terms of LVMHâs prior experience of running brands including Louis Vuitton, Dior and Fendi.
âItâs not a celebrity brand. Itâs a brand that has to appeal to other women, too. There will be other muses, other people wearing the products. Itâs not a brand that will depend solely on her image, thatâs for sure,â he told WWD.
Product will drop roughly every four weeks, with the aim of selling out each run. Like Louis Vuitton, Fenty wonât offer discounts on its products.
Operating with a skeleton staff â a mix of veterans of LVMH brands such as Vuitton, Fendi, Berluti and Make Up For Ever, alongside outside recruits â and no permanent office, the label seeks to combine Europeâs luxury tradition with a U.S. approach to inclusivity. âItâs really a start-up garage mentality,â Voisin said.
The idea was born in April 2017, when he and his colleague CĂ©line Sanzey met Rihanna and Jay Brown, CEO of Jay Z‘s entertainment company Roc Nation, at a restaurant in New York City. âWe literally sketched out the idea there and then,â Voisin recalled.
Launched in late 2017, Fenty Beauty was hailed as a transformative brand, generating revenues of about 500 million euros in its first full year of activity.
By then, LVMH had already committed to expanding the brand into clothing. And while it sees Rihanna as a powerful conduit to a new Millennial demographic, the luxury group does not expect to pick up the same customers who buy her Pro Filtâr foundation and Killawatt highlighter.
âWeâre not at the same level as Fenty Beauty in terms of price points â weâre 10 times more expensive, so by definition, we are targeting a customer base that is much smaller and different,â Voisin said.
Likewise, he does not expect to post the same sales figures, even though prices start at 200 euros for a tailored white T-shirt, 360 euros for colorful wraparound shades, 280 euros for oversized earrings and 450 euros for shoes.
âItâs not the same business model because for Fenty Beauty, you have 1,600 Sephora stores carrying the products. Thatâs physical retail with staff doing the sales. We only have the web site,â he pointed out.
âThere is no example of a real brand with long-term ambitions that is 100 percent digital generating revenues of more than 50 million euros over a 12-month period. If we do more than 50 million in 12 months, weâll be the first,â he added. âWhen you start out, no matter how well-known you are, doing more than 50 million is heroic.â
While Rihanna is CEO and creative director of the label, the managing director is another woman, VĂ©ronique Gebel, in charge of running the day-to-day business. Gebel teamed with Rihannaâs trusted stylist, Jahleel Weaver, to get the teams up and running.
Gebel said Weaverâs role was crucial in the early âgetting-to-know-youâ phase, helping to bridge cultural differences and provide insight into Rihannaâs creative process. âIt was a sort of tango, a marvelous learning curve,â she recalled.
âShe has a vision, and she knows how to pursue it with the determination, time and energy necessary to achieve it,â Voisin said. âIn everything she does, she is one step ahead.â
Rihanna admitted that she plays to win. âI care about what I do, and I care to make it the best and have it be presented in the best way. Iâm passionate about what I do, so thereâs pressure every single second. Itâs not like crumbling pressure, itâs just like, âYou better get it good, girl,â she said with a laugh.
Still, she tries not to think about the fact that she is the first woman of color to head an LVMH brand. âWhen I walk into the office I donât think about those things, because whatâs in front is exactly whatâs at task and thatâs the only thing thatâs important â and making sure that I make my boss proud,â she said with a grin.
The singer sat down with WWD to share her thoughts on streetwear, being a role model and giving the âcoolâ kids a chance.
WWD:Â This project is a first on so many levels, including the fact that you are the first woman of color to head an LVMH brand. What aspect of this are you most proud of?
Robyn Rihanna Fenty:Â Really the same thing that Iâve been proud of from the beginning, which is the opportunity that Iâve been given, that someone believed in me enough to grant me this opportunity, and itâs a really big deal. Itâs a really special, unique opportunity for me and for LVMH. Weâre excited. Itâs an exciting partnership, kind of an unexpected one in a way, but I love it. I love the marriage, I love what I can bring being plugged into LVMHâs incredible machine.
WWD: Itâs not often that Bernard Arnault gives figures for individual brands during his financial press conferences. With Fenty Beauty, heâs been giving the figures from the get-go as an example of a highly successful start-up. Are you conscious of being a role model for young girls in terms of being an artist and an entrepreneur?
R.R.F.:Â I never thought about the entrepreneur side as much until recently, really, because my role as a role model has always been connected to Rihanna the artist, and so I always used to look at me as the businesswoman as the behind-the-scenes kind of role, and I guess now itâs really hitting me how special this is, and how many young women â and young men â are going to be motivated by this. Theyâre going to know that itâs possible, and all of a sudden this whole idea and dream that they never thought was possible, or that they could even have, they can.
WWD: So youâve always been a savvy businesswoman, but before it was more in stealth mode. People were seeing the result of your hard work, but not the work itself. Now people can see youâre a hard worker.
R.R.F.:Â Thank you. Yeah, because I did endorsements before, and they were fun, but they donât last. Theyâre not something that you get to take home with you, you just lend your face basically to a brand. This is so much more fulfilling. It feels right and Iâm working with the best, so it couldnât be any more special for me.
WWD: In your previous work with Puma, you were credited with kick-starting the ath-leisure trend for women. There is a lot of tailoring in this collection. Are you over the whole streetwear thing?
R.R.F.:Â Over it? Never. Never over it, but tailoring and corsetry, some of the details that we have used in the first drop, which is the release that you see here now, those are details that I wanted together, because that kind of really explains me in a dress. Itâs like, I love to dress in menâs clothing, and clothing thatâs inspired by menâs clothing, but I also love to put on a gown and a slip and a heel and an earring, and so I just like to put those two things together all the time. Every time I dress, itâs like a little bit of two things or three worlds together, and so it had to be reflected here.
WWD: Youâre the main face of Fenty Beauty, even if the brand has a lot of other faces. Will you be wearing your own clothing line a lot? Will you be the main ambassador for it?
R.R.F.:Â Well listen, itâs mine, I love it! I love it, itâs in my closet, so I wear it. I wear it all the time. I can wear whatever I want, which is what I want my customer to know. It can be a part of your closet, you can wear it together â full look â or you can just mix it in with what you already have. You can feel free. Women are multifaceted, so it all depends on my mood.
WWD: Itâs interesting that you have brought in young designers like Matthew Adams Dolan and Conner Ives to work on the collection. Why is it important to you to be democratic and open in the creation process?
R.R.F.:Â I think itâs very important. I think itâs wise to have young, new, fresh ideas be a part of the structure, because you donât know everything. These kids are cool, theyâre smart, theyâre talented, and I want to give them the opportunity to come here and be a part of it, be involved, even if itâs for a year or six months. I welcome it.
WWD: This is an online brand mainly. Do you still shop, and if so, what makes it worth it for you to go to a store these days?
R.R.F.:Â I like either being emotionally connected to a brand because I love what they stand for, I love their story, I love the designer, I love the clothes. Those are the things that get you off your butt and into a store.
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Donovan is the CEO and Editor-In-Chief of www.dmfashionbook.com. For all general inquiries please email don@dmfashionbook.com Donovan has a BA in Journalism & Media Studies from the prestigious Rutgers University. He's currently studying entertainment and fashion law.