Donatella Versace On The Changing Fashion Calendar; “The Calendar Is In Shambles”
As you guys know by now, in recent months, there were a lot of changes in the fashion industry: creative directors stepping down and taking helm at other houses, the advent of the “see now, buy now,” and the combining of menswear and womenswear shows. Some designers are tired of the changes and definitely not for it.
Italian fashion designer and current Vice President of the Versace Group, as well as its chief designer, Donatella Versace has given her opinion on the current state of the changing fashion calendar.
“The calendar is in shambles; I am fed up with this system,” Donatella said to WWD. “I think the business model of luxury brands is about to change in a radical way. We are all thinking about what to do.”
Some brands including Gucci, Tom Ford, Public School, Thakoon and Burberry are opting for “co-ed” collections (combining menswear and womenswear) as a solution to reigning in the amount of fashion week appearances that they make. However, this is something that Versace is not doing.
“I don’t believe in gender mixing,” she said. “There are women and men; my fashion is totally different, with the same mentality behind the design process, but different. I like a strong, daring woman who has no fear of showing who she is, her force. The same with men. You can’t translate it in the clothes in the same way. Absolutely not.”
Italian designer Stefano Gabbana agrees with Versace. He told British Vogue‘s editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman at the Vogue Festival last month, “It doesn’t make sense in our opinion. Man is man, woman is woman. First you need to ask the question which buyers would come? Which journalists come? We sell a lot to the man, we need a show especially for men. For Dolce & Gabbana, they can’t mix.”
One of the other biggest changes in the fashion industry is the “see now, buy now” fall/winter collections in September.
Versace said while the see-now-buy-now model works with her Versus brand, she doesn’t believe that the same model can work for all brands, and intends on keeping Versace‘s offering to the world of see-now-buy-now in capsule collection form.
“With see-now, buy-now, we’ve been pioneers on this. I must say, I believe in it, but for Versus, for lines that are less important, especially for young people on the Internet,” she said. “We can do capsules. For quality, you need time, especially with prints. The goal is to deliver more quickly, not in six months. We had eight looks from the fall show in store in the last week of May. We should divide the deliveries into two or three drops, because I don’t want to wait either. I see it with myself, and I understand other women.”
Photos Credit: Courtesy of Versace